Lagos is built on the mainland and a series of islands in the coastal Lagos lagoon. Its character as a natural harbour made it a major point of contact for European settlers. Capital of Nigeria until 1991, when the federal government transferred to purpose-built Abuja, Lagos remains the country's main economic and industrial centre. The commercial and administrative heart of the city is on Lagos Island, while the main industrial areas are on the mainland and include Ikeja – which is also the capital of Lagos state – Oregun, Ilupeju and Ikorodu. The city has an estimated population of about 15 million and a foreign community of expatriates and Lebanese, Chinese, Indian and Arab immigrants, who live mostly in Ikoyi, Victoria Island, Apapa and Ikeja. The principal slums include Isale - Eko (literally meaning 'down town'), Ajegunle, Mushin and Oshodi. English and 'pidgin English' (a form of Creole) are the main languages although indigenous languages and dialects such as Yoruba are generally also spoken. 'Danfo' (yellow painted mini-bus), 'molue' (truck-like bus) and 'okada' (commercial motorcycle) are the main forms of public transport; fares vary from N20 to N150. However, middle-and high-income earners generally get around by private vehicle.

Housing is usually found through an agent, who charges ten per cent of the annual rent, and prospective tenants should also expect to pay two years' rent upfront. Rents are usually quoted per annum and are for furnished accommodation with water and electricity. Text: Stephen Oladipupo, stevliz01@yahoo.co.uk. Last updated July 2006. Photos courtesy of Raffaele Bello.